Day 1: Understanding Hair Color Chemistry

Build the foundation. Trust the science. Formulate with confidence.

Class Description:

No more guessing. This foundational course provides an in-depth look at the chemistry behind hair color, lighteners, toners, and the hair itself. Understanding pH, alkalizers, peroxide, and dye molecules helps stylists master formulation, protect hair integrity, and improve client results.

We’ll explore how color actually works — not just in theory, but hands-on — including swatching and pH testing. Learn how to get better blondes, make smarter lightening decisions, and stop relying on hope and habit.

Knowledge is power — and healthy hair is the result.

Segments Covered:

1. Hair & Color Chemistry

• The structure of the hair strand

• pH scale and how it relates to hair

• Chemical composition of color products

• Role of alkalizers, peroxide (H₂O₂), and dye molecules

• “Fluff & Stuff”: other ingredients and what they really do

2. Understanding Color Types

• Differences between temporary, semi, demi, and permanent color

• How alkalizers define the category of color

• How different lines behave on the hair

3. Swatching Lab #1

• Compare how each type of color behaves

• Hands-on swatch test using a variety of color tools

• Identify differences between lines, tones, and pH

4. Bleaching & Lighteners

• Types of lighteners and their purposes

• Understanding developers: energy, speed, and control

• Why "low and slow" protects the hair

• The myth of the 45-minute lift window

5. Toning Fundamentals

• Determine level of lift before toning

• Ideal levels for using toners (usually level 9–10)

• Difference between toning vs. deposit-only color

6. Swatching Lab #2

• Formulate toners

• Test pH of bleach and toner

• Swatch results and compare outcome

Tools Needed:

None required – all materials provided in class.

Day 2: Understanding Hair Color Formulation

Formulate with clarity. Recommend with confidence.

Class Description:

Building on the chemistry from Day 1, this class is all about formulation. Understand the relationship between color theory, natural levels, underlying pigments, and desired results. Eliminate guesswork and take control of your formulations by learning how to calculate tone, lift, and coverage — whether going lighter, darker, or covering gray.

Hands-on swatching reinforces theory with real-world visuals, so stylists walk away with a practical, repeatable approach to formulation.

Segments Covered:

1. Chemistry Recap (20 minutes)

• Quick refresh of key concepts from Day 1

• How chemistry informs formulation decisions

2. Formulation Theory

• Color wheel fundamentals

• Neutralizing unwanted tones

• Creating natural and custom tones

• Color math: how to cancel or enhance tones

3. Understanding Levels & Lift

• Level discovery techniques (using black & white photos)

• How texture and porosity affect level and lift

• Understanding underlying pigment and dominant pigment

• Gray coverage: how to calculate % and respond appropriately

4. Formulation Process (Permanent Color)

• Identify:

• Natural level

  1. Target level

  2. Target tone

  3. Underlying pigment

  4. Texture & porosity

  5. % of gray

• Apply color math to build correct formulations

5. Going Darker

• When filling is required (3+ levels darker)

• When it’s not (1–2 levels)

• Re-pigmentation strategies (not always red!)

6. Going Lighter

• Understanding limits of permanent color (up to 4 levels)

• High-lift color: when and how to use it

• How texture affects the amount of lift

7. Toning Recap

• Reassess lifted level before toning

• Use of toners at level 9–10

• When to use deposit-only color

• Swatching for tone correction and matching

Swatching Lab:

• Create and test multiple formulations

• Apply toners and observe results

• Compare developer strength, processing times, and tone results

Tools Needed:

None required – all materials provided in class.